Hakka Aged Orange Tea｜陳年客家酸柑茶

In the world of tea, there are broadly six types:

White tea
Green tea
Yellow tea
Oolong tea (Semi-oxidized teas)
Black tea
Dark tea (Post-fermented tea)

Famous examples of post-fermented tea include Pu-erh tea from Yunnan, China, and in Japan, there's Awabancha and Goishicha, among others.

Post-fermented tea differs from the other five types of tea in its manufacturing process. Instead of undergoing oxidation of catechins in the leaves through enzymatic action, as seen in the "fermentation" of other teas, post-fermented tea undergoes true "fermentation" by microorganisms within the tea leaves.

In general, 'fermentation' refers to the process where substances undergo changes (beneficial to humans) due to the action of microorganisms. However, in the context of tea, the term 'fermentation' is used in a different sense. In tea processing, it typically refers to the oxidation of catechins in the leaves facilitated by enzymatic activity." — Quoted from the "Dictionary of Scientific Terms for Tea (2nd Edition)" by the Japanese Society of Tea Science and Technology (2007).

"Pressed tea" refers to tea leaves compressed and solidified during the tea processing. Opposite to pressed tea, loose tea leaves are called "loose leaf tea" or "broken leaf tea." Tea production is mostly limited to warm and humid climates. In the early days of tea transportation technology, loose tea encountered issues such as absorbing moisture or gradually breaking during transit due to shaking. Long-term preservation was also challenging. To address these challenges and facilitate storage and transportation, tea leaves started being compressed and molded.

In fact, the production of pressed tea has existed in Taiwan since ancient times, born out of the Hakka people's inclination to cherish things. This tradition has evolved into the production of "酸柑茶(Suan-kumquat tea)," primarily for health purposes in recent years.

During the Lunar New Year period, many Taiwanese people purchase several "虎頭柑(Citrus aurantium L. cv. Hutou Gan)," which are considerably larger than regular kumquats and are a cross between oranges and tangerines. These kumquats, known for their auspicious qualities as they can be left on the offering table for a month without rotting, are commonly used as decorations during the New Year.

However, due to their strong acidity and bitterness, the flesh and juice of these kumquats are not suitable for direct consumption. Consequently, after the Lunar New Year passes, the kumquats lose moisture, shrink, and harden, leading to most of them being discarded as waste.

To prevent waste and uphold the Hakka ancestors' values of thriftiness and cherishing items, the Hakka people stuff these kumquats with oolong or black tea found at home, tie them with strings, steam them, apply pressure, and then sun-dry them. This process is repeated nine times over a long period of three months, resulting in round and hard Suan-kumquat tea similar to Pu-erh tea.

Suan-kumquat tea can be stored for over five or ten years. When brewed, it offers a smooth and refreshing taste, combining the aroma of tea and the citrusy fragrance of kumquats to create a slightly acidic mouthfeel. It is said to be effective for coughs, phlegm, fever relief, and digestion.

In ancient times when medicines were scarce, Suan-kumquat tea, stuffed with herbs like perilla leaves, mint, and ginger along with tea leaves, was an essential health drink for Hakka households in the Taoyuan, Hsinchu, and Miaoli areas, used both for minor illnesses and general health maintenance.

The dried peel of "虎頭柑" is referred to as "Chenpi" in classical literature. According to traditional Chinese medicine, Chenpi is believed to be effective for coughs and phlegm. The timing of harvesting and selecting "虎頭柑" is considered a scholarly pursuit, with the best time being when the fruits are 7 or 8 percent ripe. They are harvested and left indoors for several days until the peel slightly dries and softens before processing.

The production of Suan-kumquat tea is not a simple task.

The first step involves hollowing out the fruit, starting by piercing the top of the citrus with a specialized metal cylinder. Carefully removing the seeds from the flesh, the extracted pulp is juiced in a food processor, mixed with tea leaves cooked with perilla, mint, licorice, etc., and then returned to the hollowed-out citrus. At this point, the citrus, tightly packed with tea leaves, is covered with its original peel and securely tied with a string. Next, the Suan-kumquat tea is placed in a vegetable steamer, steamed once, compressed once, sun-dried once (or baked in an oven), steamed again, compressed again, sun-dried again, and so forth, undergoing a continuous process of steaming, drying, and compressing known as "nine steams and nine sun-dries," taking a total of nine steps and three months to complete.

Once hardened, the Suan-kumquat tea can withstand long-term storage. Its smooth and rounded appearance shrinks and changes color gradually from reddish-orange to golden-yellow, earthy-yellow, deep brown, and finally to black, resembling beautiful petals as it dries and is tied repeatedly until the string needs to be removed several times. When stored in a pottery jar for over two years after completion, its taste becomes exceptionally smooth, and the aroma and flavor of aged tea are also enjoyed.

Due to its hard, stone-like finish, it needs to be cracked with a hammer and can be brewed in a teapot with boiling water. Additionally, licorice, osmanthus, longan, and chrysanthemum can be added or brewed together, offering a sour-sweet flavor profile.

The key difference between the recently popular Xiaoqingkumquat and the traditional Suan-kumquat tea lies in the fact that all the pulp and juice of the oranges are not discarded but mixed with tea leaves and other herbs before being stuffed into Tiger Head Kumquats. Thus, besides the aroma of Chenpi essential oil, the sweetness and acidity of the juice are also tasted.

As hammering can be labor-intensive, many consumers seeking convenience now prefer machine-ground Suan-kumquat tea products, which are packed into tea bags and highly popular among urban workers.

Aroma & Flavor | Citrus acidity and sweetness, smooth black tea, and the aroma of plum blossoms derived from aged tea.

Instructions:
1. Pierce holes in the "虎頭柑".
2. Remove the pulp.
3. Finely chop the pulp in a blender and remove any bitter seeds.
4. Mix with oolong or black tea (optionally mix with herbs).
5. Stuff the pulp into the kumquats.
6. Steam.
7. Apply pressure.
8. Sun-dry.
9. Repeat the steaming, pressing, and sun-drying process nine times.
10. Store in a jar for over two years.

Origin: Head of Miaoli Township, Miaoli
Farm: Yancha Sanwei
Variety: Tiger Head Kumquat / Black Tea
Fermentation: 100%
Roasting: 20%
Harvest Season: January to June
Brewing Instructions: Water Temperature: 100 degrees Celsius
Water Volume: 150ml
Steeping Time:
1st Steep: 3 minutes
2nd Steep: 4 minutes
3rd Steep: 5 minutes